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15 Years in Derm: Viral Skincare Trends That Make Me Cringe (and the Few That Don’t)

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After 15 years in dermatology, I’ve seen trends cycle in and out—some helpful, others harmful—and social media only makes it more confusing with new “miracle” skincare hacks every week. Some of these trends have legitimate science behind them, while others make dermatology professionals cringe. Here’s a science-based breakdown of four viral skincare trends and whether they’re actually worth your time (and face).  

Slugging
This one isn’t new—it’s classic dermatology. Slugging with petroleum jelly helps seal in moisture and repair the skin barrier, especially for those with eczema or dry skin. Just remember: more isn’t always better. The downside? It can trap sebum and debris, worsening acne in oily or acne-prone skin. Science shows that slugging works best when used sparingly, at night, and on top of a well-formulated moisturizer. Not every skin type benefits.

Beef Tallow Moisturizer
The “ancestral skincare” movement brought this one back, but there’s no solid research showing that beef tallow outperforms modern moisturizers. While it does contain fatty acids, it’s not sterile and may clog pores. I’d skip this one in favor of a ceramide-rich, dermatologist-tested moisturizer.

Tretinoin Sandwiching
Tretinoin can transform skin, but it’s powerful. “Sandwiching” involves applying moisturizer before and after tretinoin to buffer its effects. Scientifically, this technique holds up—moisturizer doesn’t significantly block tretinoin absorption but helps reduce irritation by strengthening the skin barrier. For sensitive or new users, this is an evidence-based way to increase tolerance without compromising results. Once the skin adapts, some may switch back to applying tretinoin directly to clean, dry skin for maximum potency.

At-Home Microneedling
This is one trend I don’t recommend trying at home. Professional microneedling—performed in-office with sterile, single-use needles and controlled depth—stimulates collagen safely and effectively. At-home rollers, on the other hand, barely reach the dermis and are often reused, raising the risk of infection, pigmentation changes, and scarring.

The Takeaway
Trends come and go, but healthy skin care should always be grounded in science. Slugging and tretinoin sandwiching have merit when done correctly; beef tallow and at-home microneedling are best left off your list. Consistency, evidence-based ingredients, and professional guidance will always beat viral skincare hacks.

Laurie Fashakin PA-C
@laurie_fashakin_pac
Sandlake dermatology
@sandlakederm

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